YSL(Yves Saint Laurent)
Yves Saint Laurent himself said it best: “Chanel freed women, and I empowered them.” Founded in 1961, the legendary house that bears his name has given us a repertoire of fabled pieces (the Mondrian shift, Le Smoking, the safari jacket, the see-through dress) that offered a modern vocabulary of dressing that was confident, worldly, and sexually liberated.
- the legendary house that bears his name：因此这个牌子是一个eponymous fashion label,就是“以创立者名字命名的”商标。很多时尚品牌都是以这种方式命名的，比如香奈儿（Chanel），以及本《英语发音系列》的前两个路易威登（Louis Vuitton）和古驰（Gucci）等。
- Repertoire：/ˈrɛpətwɑː/，原意是“剧目”，来自于法语，而后者又来自于拉丁语repertōrium，意思是“catalogue, inventory”，引申为“the entire stock of things available in a field or of a kind”，也就是所有的“存货”之意。在法语里“-oir”或者是“-oire”发/wɑː/音，其他类似的单词还有大家熟悉的reservoir，memoir（比如章子怡和巩俐的《艺伎回忆录》Memoirs of a Geisha）等。
- The Mondrian shift: 这是Yves Saint Laurent为了纪念荷兰画家皮特·蒙德里安（Piet Mondrian）而设计的系列，相信大家对这个设计图样并不陌生。这里的shift可不是“转换”的意思，而是指的“a straight, loose-fitting dress worn with or without a belt.”也就是“A字裙”（A-line dress）。
- Le smoking: 1966年，Yves Saint Laurent设计了一款震惊时装界的晚装：精心裁剪的黑色“男式晚礼服”里面配上荷叶边白色衬衫，他把它叫做“Le smoking”， 其中le是法语the的意思。这个设计撼动了当时男女装泾渭分明的时装界，一些饭店不承认这是合乎标准的晚装，所以会拒绝穿着“le smoking”服装的女客户入内。据传当时有一位叫做Nan Kempner的社交名媛在被一个饭店拒绝以后，直接脱掉下面的裤装（trousers），只穿上面的西服当作一件迷你连衣裙（mini dress）,强烈地讽刺了那家饭店守旧地着装要求（dress code），同时她这一举动也被当做“Saint Lauren Women”的典范而广为流传。
Saint Laurent and his long-time lover (and business alter ego), Pierre Bergé, founded the company in 1961, a year after the young designer was abruptly dismissed from Paris’s reigning couture house, Christian Dior, of which he had been the head. Within a few years of opening his own atelier, Saint Laurent was infusing his creations with the maverick spirit of the 1960s. “There is a new trend in fashion,” he declared. “It is young and strives for attractiveness rather than elegance.” It also strived for worldliness. A master of appropriation, Saint Laurent would venture into realms as diverse as the gay counterculture, the souks of Marrakech, and the steppes of Russia, plucking from them garments that were humble (peasant blouses, military trenchcoats) or ceremonial (African conical breastplates) and elevating them to the status of high fashion.
- Alter ego:另一个自己，说明两人的关系之亲密，除了是爱人，还是商业合作伙伴。
- Couture：来自法语，意思是“high-fashion designing and dressmaking”，也就是“高端服装设计和制作”。有一个比较著名的牌子可能众多女士会很熟悉，叫做Juicy Couture，他家的velour（天鹅绒）休闲装很有名。请注意我的朗读中这个单词的发音。
- Atelier：来自法语，指的是“a workshop or studio, especially of an artist, artisan, or designer.”，也就是设计师的工作间。请注意我的朗读中这个单词的发音。
- Maverick：这个单词来自美国德克萨斯州一位叫做Samuel A. Maverick (1803–70)的农场主，他没有给自己的牲畜打上烙印。从这个masterless（没有主人）的意思又引申出 “a person of independent or unorthodox views”的意思，也就是独树一帜不拘一格的人。Yves Saint Laurent正是这样的一个人，他的设计总是别出心裁，其理念大胆挑战当时的社会观念。
- Appropriation：来自appropriate /əˈprəʊprɪeɪt/（注意这里这个单词是动词，所以发音和作为形容词时略有不同），指的是“拿来使用，占用”（take possession of）
- Souks of Marrakech：这是法语里的拼写，英语里面写作Marrakesh，souk在阿拉伯语里面是“集市”的意思，所以这里指的是马拉喀什的集市。
- the steppes of Russia：欧亚大草原
- Peasant blouses：也叫peasant top
Ultimately, Saint Laurent’s drug addiction and depression took their toll, and by the 1980s the designer was no longer innovating. When Gucci Group stepped in to acquire the financially ailing company in 1999, Tom Ford soon was given the job of creating ready-to-wear while Saint Laurent remained in charge of haute couture. Increasingly frail, the founder stepped down in 2002, shuttering the couture house and leaving Ford as sole creative captain.
- Take one’s toll：意思是“To affect, especially negatively”，这里“took their toll”中的“their”指的是“drug addiction and depression”。Saint Laurent的毒瘾和抑郁症严重影响了他的健康，到了20世纪80年代他已经没有新的设计出台了。1999年，Gucci收购了这家财务窘迫的公司（financially ailing），Tom Ford掌管成衣（ready-to-wear）部门，而Saint Laurent则负责“haute couture”，也就是高端服装部分。
- shuttering： to close (a store or business operations) for the day or permanently. 就是关店的意思。
声明：本文由网站用户香香发表，超梦电商平台仅提供信息存储服务，版权归原作者所有。若发现本站文章存在版权问题，如发现文章、图片等侵权行为，请联系我们删除。
